Date: 19 February 2021
Party: Anna, Elizabeth, Lesley
Map: https://www.alltrails.com/explore/map/wed-04-nov-2020-23-48-8744cf9
Distance/Elevation/Time: 11.2k; 400m; 3 hours and 53 minutes
Notes: This track has been recently opened again, and totally upgraded (if that is the right word for what we found) in view of the ongoing kauri die-back crisis. Part of the strategy to eliminate the virus has been to close the tracks, and then to build stairways and boardwalk over the tree roots so that walkers are not disturbing them and thereby spreading the virus. We could discuss vectors all day, but it seems to us that if the track has been closed for years, and the virus has still spread, how can trampers be the vector? And if the virus has been around since at least the 1970s (according to the DOC gentleman tasked with making sure we cleaned our boots correctly) why is this still an issue, and why the mass closures, and why is there no 'cure' already? Is climate change the real culprit? Anyway.
The day was picture perfect, sunny and still without a cloud in the sky. It had been some time since we had been on a proper Friday walk, and this was exactly the right day to do it. The steps start...and don't stop. What used to be a meandering track is now pretty much straight up. Anna's tactic of stopping every 100 stairs for a breather is the only way some of us can manage the climb, and even then we have to pause for an early morning tea to revitalize the legs. We see glimpses of the old track, and even venture about 50 metres onto one of the old sections (see the picture below of E and L), where there is such a different mood to the stairs/boardwalk of the new track. The new track seems 'touristy', despite the glorious views and wonderful bush. Maybe the wooden walkways are too clean, and the track too recently hacked out; maybe we will get used to it in time. Some of the other more recently opened tracks are also heavily stepped and board-walked - maybe this will have to be our new normal. We meet a lovely group of Asian walkers coming down the track in the opposite direction from us (they started at Donald Maclean), and they are a bit horrified when we tell them there are LOTS more stairs, and turn around!
Once the summit of the track is reached, an undulating ridge takes us to Donald Maclean lookout for a spectacular view over the harbour. The colour of the water is extraordinary. We decide to eat our lunch at the lovely bench we spotted on the way up, so head back over the undulations. There are two gentlemen already ensconced on our bench, but we take over the other end (it's a big bench). We can't help but notice the tray, the teapots and the tiny china teacups. Slightly incongruent with the packet of sesame wheat crackers, but, you know. One of the gentlemen suddenly leaps to his feet. A stick insect has landed on his (hatted) head. This is pretty unusual, even for those of us who have seen the odd stick insect, but it turns out that these two have never seen one. Their English is OK, so we manage to let them know what it is called, and that it won't bite them. They have a good look, take some photos, transfer it to a nearby tree. Then they proceed to annoy the crap out of it by prodding it, moving it around, and trying to hold it. Stick insect abuse. It has the good sense to drop to the forest floor, out of reach. As E would say, what the hell?!
Back down the track, 800+ stairs, with our knees miraculously intact but 'front thighs' and 'back calves' burning. And off to Alfred's Huia Store, which is somewhat different to the old version, but still does great coffee.
