Taranaki Tale

Date: 17 September 2015 - 20 September 2015
Party: Anna, Elizabeth, Lesley
Map: http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/waikato/places/waitomo-area/tracks/ruakuri-walk/; http://www.doc.govt.nz/Documents/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/wanganui/north-egmont-brochure-and-map.pdf; http://www.newplymouthnz.com/OurDistrict/Maps/CoastalWalkwayMap.htm

Distance:13.7 km





















Elevation: 1330m from approx. 910m and down to 650m




















Time: 5.75 hours

Notes: We set off from Auckland promptly at 4 o'clock (timeliness was something of a theme as we had a fabulous Itinerary to marshal our hours) and beat the traffic to the best little Top 10 Holiday Park in Waitomo! Cute, clean, with a Welcome Back Anna! note taped to the sliding door, we thought our wee space was just right - a bunk room in one tiny room, and a double bed in the lounge, with a teeny tiny kitchenette and bathroom. Meticulously well-kept units. The promised rain set in, but we were happy to wander the 100 meters or so to our first foodie stop - HuHu Cafe. We had expected to be the only ones there and were somewhat stunned mullet to find the place brimming with families and slightly harassed staff. The food was really good - crispy pork and lamb shoulder, delicious.

Up the next morning at some ungodly hour and off to do the Ruakuri Walk, which is a pretty simple loop through some collapsed caves, and is stunning. The scenery is really lush, the caves dramatic, and there is plenty of information along the way about limestone caves and acidic water. The limestone looks like brick and is in such definite layers it's hard to believe it's natural. Mostly boardwalks, and lots of lovely steps. We extended the walk out along part of the Waitomo Walkway, but it was very muddy and wet, bordering farmland in general, and we decided there were more exciting times to be had in New Plymouth. We had some great stops on the way to NP. Te Kuiti wasn't one of them. Pio Pio was a revelation, and some of the hardcore shoppers found a second-hand shop (a Royal Family Jigsaw being the absolute highlight, although a childhood Bible may have been runner-up). Shoppers were reluctantly dragged back to the car. We were looking forward to another foodie stop in Mokau (whitebait) and were amazed by the number of shacks lining the river, with nets and equipment. Every 50-100 metres or so, a shed. Mokau's whitebait could be eaten in an omelette, a fritter or a sandwich, so we each ordered a different meal. Strangely, they all looked pretty much the same and were all absolutely delicious. One of us had directional trouble and found herself in the staff toilets, not the public toilets, but...whatever. Got to our swanky pad at the Quest in New Plymouth and made ourselves at home.

Then we 'explored the city' (went shopping). A jigsaw may have been commenced, wine and nibbles consumed, DOC contacted, gear made ready. Reservations at certain restaurants dishonoured. Alternative restaurant fare enjoyed.

Breakfast on Saturday was at 0730, before we made a quick trip to The Federal Store for some lunch to eat on the track. We loved the look of the food (and later the taste), but found the cabinet food outrageously pricey. $9 for a filled roll/quiche?! We overcame our outrage, decided NOT to go there for breakfast in the morning and headed off to the Taranaki/Egmont National Park Visitor Centre to make sure the track was passable and declare our intentions. DOC has changed their policy on intentions - we were not able to record any information about our plans at the Centre, although they made sure to advise us to notify someone else, which we duly did. Not sure at what stage Tony would have decided we were missing, but I guess someone would have wondered about our car in the carpark when they came to work the next day! The weather was cloudy, but off we set. This would have to be one of the most memorable and gorgeous walks ever. So much to see, especially in the first half of the walk where the lichen, limestone bluffs, boulders, slip, and vegetation are just breathtaking and beautiful. The weather stayed misty, with the odd shower and occasional sunshine making the walk really atmospheric. We glimpsed Mt Taranaki peering through the clouds and that was satisfying. We consider ourselves to have been incredibly lucky to have experienced this place. 

Limestone Bluffs

Designer slopes

Anna, Track, Slip

Elizabeth walks the Boomerang Slip

Salted caramel tart

From the swing bridge

Social Kitchen for dinner. Mmmm, good without being a show-stopper.

The next day we woke up to the promised torrential rain, and decided what-the-hell let's do the Coastal Walkway anyway. 10kms in 1 hour 50 minutes, and a drench rating of 100%. Very west coast 'beaches' and surf, and haven't they done a magnificent job of this walkway! And the Te Rewa Rewa Bridge! The Len Lye Wind Wand! that bends and twists in the wind is outstanding as an icon and as a piece of sculpture. 

After a shower and check-out we were looking forward to seeing more of Len Lye in the new Gallery, and WOW were we impressed, inside and out.

Brunch at Monica's Eatery afterwards. Sardines. They asked me to put their photo in here.